- Fixed Frame Projection Screen
- Motorized Projection Screen
- Curved Frame Projection Screen
- Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen
- Portable Projection Screen
- Projector Brackets
8mm home movie projector lamp
This instructable is simple and requires only 3 parts and some very basic tools.
However, it is recommended to use some very basic welding.
Finally, it cost me less than $30 for this project.
The project creates a beautiful little artistic light, a low wattage mood light or night light that can be turned on or used with a timer.
I have always liked the Art Deco design of American daily necessities after the war.
I find that these items are generally still valid and only need a little maintenance or adjustment, and consumers today are not aware that they can do that.
Every once in a while I find a machine that looks great and it\'s not worth saving, which gives me the chance to create artwork.
Note: I know that it is possible to find the machine my exact brand and model is low, however, some people\'s observations of other projectors of similar times show that they are similar in design, it may also be similar internally.
This instructable better provides inspiration/guidelines for other creative projects, and if you do something like that, I would like to see it, please post or link in the comments. . .
I want to have a look.
Warning: Please do not do anything to the wire when plugged in, electricity is not a joke. Parts:1950\'s-
Era 8mm home movie projector: While this is the only hard-to-get part of the project, I actually found two matching models in two different real estate sales, each of which is about $15.
The projector used in this project was originally purchased for the parts and there was a bad gear drive.
Trying to buy these items online, I found that their average price on Craigslist or Ebay is around $60$70.
The best option to find a cheap one is to look around on grandma\'s attic or Craigslist real estate sales list.
Ceramic bulb socket: The key is to find a socket with the same thickness as the original projector socket (
The size on our projector is about 3/4. )
This photo should be easy to get from most hardware stores for $34.
Bulb: I am using led 7 W bulb with TCP Dimmable.
The project does not involve dimmers, so you can save a few bucks with any A19 base bulb that suits you.
These projectors are usually hot, so I wouldn\'t worry too much about overheating the base.
But, keep in mind that we won\'t run the cooling fan, so you might smell some dust burning.
Tools: 3/8 wrench from middle to small Philips head screwdriver to small flat head screwdriver ,(
You might get away with a pair of pliers or a small crescent wrench)
Small hex keys, soldering iron and accessories (optional)
The original light bulb used in this projector is very bright and expensive, 750 W. in style bulb.
It generates enough heat and requires a continuous cooling fan to prevent premature failure.
For obvious reasons, we will convert to a traditional socket using any conventional bulb.
One of the best parts of removing one of the machines is that it is made so that if something is broken the owner can go in and fix it.
It was separated and went back together very simply.
I started with the tool.
There are fewer removable covers and bulbs on the projector.
The rest of the lid is fixed on the front and back of the lid with several Philips screws.
This reveals holding
Lower belt of lamp socket.
The strap on this socket is easy to remove with a 3/8 wrench and shows that the connection is welded. At this point (
I hate it though)
I cut the electrical wiring of the socket.
The screw that melts the solder to the bottom is not worth it. (
However, I do leave enough wire labels on the socket to be used in future projects. )
At this point, this is a problem with connecting two leads on the new lighting socket to two leads cut from the old socket.
You can screw the wires together, wrap them with tape, or twist them
On-line caps, or using a curl connector. . .
But I will leave this basic welding tutorial here. (
Note that I ran out of shrink tubes today to protect my solder joints. . .
Don\'t be like me. )
Once the wires are connected, this is just a problem of tying up the new outlets instead of the old ones.
The socket I picked was a little thinner than the original one and needed to put a little cushion around the clip to make sure it was firmly secured.
The typical A19 bulb shape is wider than the projector bulb, so two radiators must be removed from the side cover.
These are fixed with two flat head screws.
To keep it simple, I reuse all the old lines and lovely American-made switches on the basis of the projector.
The connection switch is very simple.
Because it is connected to the jumper inside, remove the thumb screw from the Start and light switch.
Once the switch is loose, you can flip the projector and remove the 4 flat head screws to show the wiring of the switch.
The goal here is to unscrew the wires from the stop/start switch and only connect the power to the lights and light switches.
This will allow the external light switch to operate the light socket and disconnect the motor.
I have included the photo before and after the wiring, the note is the finished photo.
After the wiring is completed, ensure that all content is cleared by the tilt mechanism (
Note that there is a wire in my photo that is in contact with the screw bar. . . This is a no-
No, it was fixed after the photo. )
Now, press the button for the bottom plate and switch.
At this point, there is a lamp activated from the \"light\" switch inside the projector, but our 7-watt bulb will not be able to shine well through the 8mm hole.
To fix this, I had to remove most of the lens material from the front of the projector and support the shutter.
All lens materials are fixed with small flat head screws and separated quickly and easily.
I took every step I had to remove.
The only part that can\'t be pulled with a flat head is the fan, which has a flat head screw with a very small hex key.
At this point, you and I have the same \"finished product\", and I find that I like the V-shape of the light spread from the hole where the lens is installed.
This seems to be more \"prominent\" than the lens is still connected \".
My original plan was to use this light more like a spotlight to highlight objects in the room, but I decided to keep it simple for this instructive thing.
Another option for the projector lamp to emit more light is to put the top of the lamp cover on the bracket.
This will allow more light to go out (about double)
Better lighting up the room, but it somehow changed the nature of the artwork.
The last option is to open the lens material and reveal a cool Edison bulb by removing a side cover.
This will produce more steampunk or diesel punk effects when you show the internal work of the projector.
This option provides the most basic light-free lighting for the room, and the bulb is very inefficient. . .
But they look great.