outdoor projector screen on a budget-XY Screens-img

outdoor projector screen on a budget

by:XY Screens     2019-12-30
Outdoor movies and video games look like a niche event, but it\'s a unique experience if you have a lot of outdoor space, perfect for the crowd.
Once you start using it, it seems completely different to go back to your old TV.
Set up an X-very interesting
Play guitar in a bigger box hero or call on dutythan-
Living screen with surround sound and moving space.
Also, movies are always better on larger screens, when you save money from the kitchen at home (and drinks)
This investment is worth it for some use.
My friend Dan and I spent about $550 on a projector (
I think it\'s Epson 52 10 x)
Bought about $250 in playoff hockey tickets last year.
We watched the game on his wall and had a good time, but we decided we needed a better long-term outdoor solution.
This is a very simple design, and the material on the screen cost a total of $150.
This is an investment, but it is also an investment worth investing in, because the rugged properties of PVC pipes can meet many winter weather conditions, and it is quite easy to assemble and disassemble and store.
For this building, we use a rugged 2 \"schedule 40 PVC pipe in diameter.
Pipes of about any size are a bit overdone as the pipes have to bear their own weight and withstand gusts (
The screen will turn into a huge sail).
The general size of the screen starts with the actual size of the screen itself.
We used Target ($20)
This makes our screen about 6\' high 10\' long \'.
This piece of paper is wider than this one, but this length is needed to wrap around the pillars at the top and bottom of the screen in order to place it indoors (
Sheets and water = rotten screens.
In the future of the building, it may be more difficult weather --
Wear-resistant material like the tyvekor canvas can be used, but the sheets are cheap, the size is right and not that heavy so that the frame can easily support it).
For PVC pipe sizes, these 2\' cut sections are very convenient for making legs, and the top and bottom of the screen frame itself requires 10\' sections.
I would suggest getting 4 of them and cutting two of them to 6\' of the side column of the screen frame instead of using 3 2\' parts like we do, where 6\' part comes with both sides of the coupler, but this option also works.
Our BOM looks like this: 2 x 10\' schedule 2 \"dia 40 PVC pipe 12x2\" section 2nd \"dia PVC pipe (
Need 6x2 \"dia PVC direct coupler)
Diameter PVC 90 ° tee (4 × 2 \"diameter PVC pipe cap4 × 2\"
Ordinary accessories without threaded accessories!
Threads are hard to line up, though it\'s worth a try if you want to assemble/disassemble quickly)
2x2 \"dia PVC 90 ° elbows1 x PVC cement (
If you need a stronger fit, you can use the primer first)
1 x White tablet (
Top sheet without elasticity)
36 x metal fabric buckle with anvil12-
24 x metal buckle eyes with a diameter of 1/2 or larger (
For side weaving bungee cord or for side winding Velcro (
About 12 or 20\' rolls long)
Or bungee rope or other powerful rope tools and equipment: a few friends who are willing to help (
Very critical for final assembly)
Sharp markerSandpaper, the front joint for rough machining, gluinghammer, also known as \"lobbyists\" docking head, is stuck into the fabricRubber Mallet, also known as \"gentle persuader \"(
Solid joint for making good)
8 \'to 10\' A ladder (
When you put this together
The more ladders you have, the easier it will be for a few people to assemble it together, but we can assemble it with an 8\' ladder)
Use ~ 1/4 \"drill bit (
Used to drill holes at the base.
It will fill the water)
The soft fabric ruler is ideal (tailor\'s ruler)
Used to mark the location of the snapshot and groomed Stee
Square or frame square is useful for Mark capture and grommet position. The legs are the bottom of the screen and the easiest to start assembling.
Note: The picture shows the flat layout of the general position of the component.
Apparently, the plane of the legs coming in and out of the ground, like a photo of the simulation
From the front steps and other photos.
Test to install them together before committing to glue all PVC connections!
This is important because you may need to polish some so that the pipes can extend all the time and form a strong connection, especially since some of these connections need to remain unblocked
If you want to remove the screen after storage in winter, assemble the tube cap on four of the two sections and then glue them first.
Then put the other end of these capping pipes into two 90 degree tee fittings, so that the curved part of the tee is facing up (
It\'s really just anesthesia.
Will also help with drainage).
Stick these joints together
Then add the 2\' part to the upward tip part of the tee held and glue these connections.
The next connection is important that the tee fitting is 90 degrees outward from the leg joint to straighten your leg.
When putting this tee together, it may be easiest to take a spare 2\' part to align the tee at 90 degrees (
By placing the handle at the end of the pipe, it is easier to see and turn the extra lever action).
Glue these joints and let everything dry before proceeding.
Once dry, pick up the drill bit and hit a bunch of holes (about 2-4\" apart)
Drain along the bottom of the leg.
It\'s much easier than letting the pipe cap fall off and waving things in the air trying to coax the water out.
Now, if you have multiple 2\' parts and coupling, you need to add together 3 2\' parts of them and glue each joint.
These can be quite fragile without doing soglued.
If you have parts of 8\' or 10\', sawn them to 6\' with the weapon of your choice and polish the ends clean with sand.
Install two 90 degree elbows on top of these 6\' segments and glue them in place.
Make sure they are exactly the same height as this is the left and right side of the screen.
Once all the joints on the legs and sides are dry, we can put the mase together first.
Separate each leg for about 10\' and place a long PVC tube in place. (
Using a rubber mallet here can avoid the frustration of these joints falling off when they later climb the ladder).
Don\'t stick these joints together, this is the part that is stored separately!
Unless you intend to use it as a permanent fixture in your yard.
It looks a bit like a balance beam when it\'s done (
But too fragile to balance! ).
Next, take another 10\' long section and place an end in each 90 degree elbow on the top side of the side frame pipe.
Also, instead of gluing these joints together, put them tightly together with a rubber mallet.
This will ensure that they will not be separated during the final assembly (
Hope anyway).
With the help of (tall)
Friend, carefully lift the part of the side pipe and pipe jacking up so that the 10\' section is vertical and the 6\' rod is on the ground.
Then you can slowly lift it up and put the end at the tee of the leg.
You need to climb the ladder and hammer the joints to the bottom.
Note: depending on the type of assembly work you want to do, you can change the joints that are bonded and not bonded.
I would suggest sticking the legs together because they have to support the full weight of the frame and it crashes if the legs suddenly fall off.
Of course, if you have a rear leg pillar that can be disassembled, you can do the above assembly on the ground (
But where is the fun? haha.
This is a great epic moment to take this thing to the right place).
Now the frame is done and ready for the screen!
It\'s a boring part now.
Expand the paper completely in your work area.
Find long edges;
This is the side of the frame bar that will run from left to right on the screen and cover the top and bottom.
Carry your ruler with you and Mark about 1 increment along the edge of the paper with sharpie.
Then use a ruler or a big t Square.
For each mark on the edge, measure about 2 \"in and align with each edge mark.
Also Mark about 10 \"from that mark on the same line \".
This will be the location of your two snapshots when they wrap around the poles.
Once you\'re done, you can start adding snapshots.
Make sure to place the top of the smooth button of the snapshot to each side of the screen.
This will be on the top edge of the screen and will not interfere with your projected area so it will look better.
Follow the simple instructions on the package, first rivet the bottom snap and then the top snap.
It\'s quite simple, just make a pretty solid and satisfying tap with a hammer.
Note that it is often easier to separate the top and bottom capture components before starting, so that there is no unexpected reversal.
You can practice on an old rag or an old T-shirt if needed.
Once the snapshots are complete, test to make sure they are actually captured together correctly.
Some tight people may need extra love taps from hammers and hammers.
Bring the screen with the help of your tall friend and ladder (s)
And overlay it on the top bar of the frame.
Snap the ends together and work all the way down until all the components are assembled.
Now you have done half the quick work!
The reason we are installing it on the frame now is so that we can get the exact measurements of the next line of snapshots directly from the screen itself so that it can stay good and tight on PVC.
Use your friend\'s to stretch the screen tightly and, as before, separate sharpie from about 1\' positions, place the snapshot on the screen side, the excess fabric will meet the screen in this stretch position.
This may require some tricks, but don\'t be afraid to make new marks if the screen moves through the process. (
If you are really confident, you can make a mark on both sides and measure everything in between in your workspace).
Next, install all the snapshots at the bottom as before.
Don\'t worry about extra material;
You can cut it off with a good pair of scissors.
Or you can use this end as the top so that the excess part hangs behind the screen, can\'t see, and doesn\'t stretch out the bottom.
Test to install the screen on the frame again and press the button for all snapshots. Voila!
Looks more complete now.
The only step left is to stretch the sides.
This is the work of the buttonhole and OneWrap.
Remove the screen again and divide the area between the rows inside the snapshot into about 6 equal parts (
About every 1 \').
Mark the holes around 1 \"from the edges every other time and assemble the buttonholes there.
In this place, use a hobby knife and hold it against it with a hammer.
You then need to remove the fabric from the center of the buttonhole.
Repeat for all holes.
Once it\'s done, install the screen on the frame again (
Last time, promise).
You will wrap a circle of straps around the side bar so that velcro can lock the buckle on its own and then go through grommet and get back to yourself, so, it may need to measure one of them in a way that the screen is roughly centered, and then cut all the others to match that length.
Once all the stripes are made, when friends make sure the screen is not moving, wrap them on one side first, then move to the other side, start pulling gently and tighten the screen side with the package.
Now, take out the projector you trust, or wipe the dust off the shadow puppet and test this giant!
It\'s clear that night viewing is the best, but if you have a powerful projector, you can learn about the performance of the screen.
The ideal area for setting up this size screen is the backyard or even the driveway.
From the experience of the screen, it is quite powerful.
Another thing you should do, however, is to prevent unfortunate accidents with sandbags, wooden stumps, or some weight on your legs on windy days.
Even something as light as 10
The weight of 20 lbs per leg can make it more stable.
The legs could have had a longer PVC section, but it could have made the screen awkward and weird.
The other option is to do the second branch at the top end, but it depends entirely on you as the builder.
The beauty of the PVC design is that it is simple, cheap and fun to customize.
The basic concept is modular design and I look forward to seeing other changes in this design. (
Please post a picture if you build one! ).
If your space allows, it\'s better to set up the screen for this season and place the paper section inside after use.
This makes it no longer a job that needs to be set up, and you can spend more time making popcorn and barbecues before watching outdoor movies or playing games, you also need an AV cart or table for a projector.
This can be made with basic skills or we just make it with an abandoned stereo speaker cabinet.
Sound is another matter.
The big screen needs a lot of sound!
Craigslist is perfect for finding cheap old audio (
They will be mainly used outdoors, so it\'s a gamble to invest in a good one if it suddenly rains).
Myuncleand donated his old university stereo system to the cause and we have about 100 W of pure power available.
If you have a big truck or van, you can easily ship the screens of the state to parks, churches or other places and bring parties to places that can attract crowds.
This is great for the summer program and I hope to use it with the kids in the church youth program this summer.
Use your imagination!
This large screen can be used for a variety of purposes, even including, but not limited to, background music for laser performances, puppet performances, sports, movies, small live music performances, etc.
I want to see what fun people have with this idea.
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