projector bulb conversion to led-XY Screens-img

projector bulb conversion to led

by:XY Screens     2019-12-17
I received a projector from a friend in 2010.
It is sharp D100U from 1997.
It doesn\'t have the original light bulb, but everything else is fine.
I did some research online to see if I could buy a light bulb for it and found it would cost me $300.
I can spend so much money on a reasonable new projector.
What I really need is a new light source, so I think
LED power supply effect is very good.
There are two stages in this project.
The first is how to bypass the bulb detection circuit, and the second is to build a new LED light source.
I found these two instructions for Claudio polisto very helpful for this project: The first thing I want to do before I start taking apart the projector is to see how the projector is currently running.
I plugged it in and turned it on.
The fans are coming and I can hear the fans and the faint ticking.
And double lights that indicate the power supply and bulb.
After about 3 seconds the light bulb status light starts flashing and after about 5 minutes the projector turns off and both lights turn red.
I turned off the main power switch and the red light turned off.
I then repeated the process for the second and third time to ensure consistency.
I did some research online and tried to find any documentation on the projector.
All I can find is the user manual.
Reading it, I found the part about the indicator: Power, bulb, temperature.
There are three possible states for each indicator: solid green, indicating normal operation;
Flashing green means starting;
Red means there is a problem.
I removed the shell at the top and went into the motherboard.
My purpose is to find a logical signal telling the motherboard that there is a problem with the bulb.
I use my multimeter to connect the ground to the ground point on the projector and start measuring the value of all the wires leading to the motherboard.
I was lucky to find that every set of wires was labeled, but it was just an abbreviation.
After I recorded all the wires in each state, I made some assumptions about the direction of each set of wires. RC -
Remote Control (
Since I don\'t have a remote control for the projector and don\'t want to buy it, I took this wire and sensor off)BL -
Check circuit for high voltage and light (
This is the wire device I finally found, which I need to pay attention)LF -
Bottom fan cover sensor (
If you want to run the projector without the fan cover, the two wires on this connector need to be cut off and tied together)FF -FanLL -
Lamp cover sensor (
If you want to run the projector with a extinguished lamp cover, the two wires on this connector need to be cut off and tied together)Q -
Temperature sensor
FanThere also has a set of colored wires in one of the connectors I also recorded, but these wires don\'t end up needing to modify the projector.
When cutting and bundling wires, be sure to cut a few inches from the connector.
The wire should basically connect the connector.
Do not simply cut the wire of the connector.
On the other hand, the Orange wire of the connector needs to be cut off.
Without luck on the motherboard, I looked at the main power supply.
I did more research and found that some projectors use the photoelectric coupler for measuring the feedback of the bulb (
See photos for a full description of how to work).
I have collected from my research that I have to connect the photoelectric coupler that controls the bulb in order to think it is working properly.
I started doing more checks on the projector.
All the way down to power.
I found three ICs that I thought were the optical coupler and through trial and error I almost messed up the entire projector.
When I was busy with school and other things, the projector was placed in pieces on the shelf for several months.
I came back in the summer and tried again.
I reassembled it and tried to solve the problem with more research and more attempts and errors.
I was able to stop the high voltage arc by unplugging the BL cable from the motherboard, so I started going somewhere.
The projector is placed on the shelf again until forever.
It\'s been almost a year since I received the projector, and I got almost nothing.
I began to think it would never work.
Just as I was about to take it apart and use it for parts, I decided to give it a try at the end.
I focus on the motherboard.
I think if the power supply has any signal it has to connect to the motherboard and tell it to let the led flash and turn off the projector.
Just then, I realized, maybe in 3 seconds, when the indicator was pure green, it sent the right signal, telling us that the projector was working fine, the moment it started flashing, the signal will flip.
I haven\'t tested it in the initial test of the motherboard, so I tried it.
I am looking for a 5 V or 0 v wire that is light green, 0 V or 5 V when the light bulb indicator starts flashing.
I focus on the three wires from the power supply to the connector label.
This cable is the one I unplug to stop the high voltage so I checked the value of it.
As I thought, when the indicator starts flashing, the red line in the middle starts at 0 volts and jumps to 5 volts.
I cut the wires and splice them together to connect the connectors.
Then I put the projector back together to test.
I also found that the Orange wire is the one that sends the high voltage start signal.
I cut the wire so it\'s not connected to the motherboard anymore.
I turn on the main power switch and press the power button.
The fan is on, the green indicator light is on and continues to be on.
I thought time had stopped.
I stared at that little green light for almost 30 seconds just to make sure it didn\'t flash.
I finally found and fixed the circuit that took me almost a year to find.
Again: when tying red and brown wire cuts and bundles together, be sure to cut a few inches from the connector.
The wire should basically connect the connector.
Do not simply cut the wire of the connector.
On the other hand, the Orange wire of the connector needs to be cut off.
The next step is to find an LED that can work.
The original bulb is a 265 watt metal halogen lamp and a 2000 lumens bulb.
I did more research and found a 20 W 2000 lumens LED from DealExtream for $20 and found an 18 V power supply for $7. com.
If you have ever ordered from DealExtream, then you already know that it will take about 3 to 4 weeks for what you ordered.
For a whole month, I was waiting for the LED and the driver to arrive.
I did a quick test first to see if the LED really works and it does.
Next, I had to build a house for the new LED stand.
I use a piece of PCB board as the main part and cut it to fit the interior of the original bulb housing.
I connect the LED chip to the radiator and use the radiator compound to ensure good heat transfer.
I connect the radiator to the PCB with some aluminum brackets I made.
I weld the LED to the power supply and use a heat shrink tube around the wire to prevent the LED from melting.
I put the new LED case into the projector, set it up and test it out.
The photo is not very bright and I have to turn off all the lights to see it.
I adjusted the brightness of the projector and other settings, which was a little helpful but not much.
I made a quick comparison of the two sources just to see how much energy the new LED saves.
265 W bulb 0.
265 degrees per hour, while the 20-watt light only used 0.
At 02 KW, the efficiency is about 13 times higher.
I decided that a reflector and a lens might help to focus the wide angle of the LED.
I did the math with Google Sketchup and made a template that I could then use to make the aluminum sheet.
I found a lens that focuses the most light and fits inside the reflector.
I\'m sure it might do better and more in line with the topic, but I didn\'t know the math or physics to do that at the time.
The most difficult part of using this LED is trying to focus on 20 separate light sources, each with its own focus.
This modification is actually very helpful.
The picture is brighter and you can watch a movie on it, but I still need to turn off all the lights and the dark scenes are still hard to see.
In the next revision, I tried the actual mirror of the reflector instead of the dull aluminum.
This makes the movie brighter and easier to watch, but it is still not bright enough to enjoy the movie.
I didn\'t use the projector almost all summer and I was disappointed that the LED light was not focused enough.
In the fall, I strolled around oneBay and I met a 100 W, 8000 lumens LED for $60.
It is equipped with LED driver, lens and reflector.
I thought for a moment and did some research on the growth from 20 W LED to 100 W LED.
This new LED generates a lot of heat, but since the original bulb has 265 watts, I think the heat can be controlled by the fan and the radiator.
I bought the LED and arrived later that month.
It\'s not hard to change the LED.
The installation position of the new LED is the same as the previous one.
All I have to do is take the old one off and put the new one on.
I welded the new power supply and glued the lens and reflector to the LED.
I am sure that from 2000 lumens LED to 8000 lumens LED, the brightness of the picture will increase significantly, I am right.
I can see the pictures even when the lights are on.
When I turned off the light, the picture was right.
Bright enough to watch movies.
My only concern is all the heat generated by the new LED.
I ran the projector for 30 minutes and let it cool down;
Then it was an hour, and finally three hours.
Through these tests, I found that the radiators and fans inside the projector are sufficient to prevent the LED from overheating.
I made another comparison of these two light sources.
The new 100 W only uses 0.
1 KW hours an hour, only 1 KW hours.
2 cents per hour
Similarly, the 265-watt bulb uses 0.
It costs 265 KW hours an hour.
18 cents an hour, 2.
Efficiency is increased by 65 times.
The projector has been done so far until I have another idea to improve it.
Throughout the project, I spent about $100 on LEDs and other materials, and it took nearly two years to complete.
It is bright enough to enjoy the movie and I am happy with the heat control.
I believe there will be better LEDs working better for this project in the next few years, but now it\'s fine.
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