rainbow projector-XY Screens-img

rainbow projector

by:XY Screens     2019-12-10
The Rainbow Project has nothing better than the majesty and splurge of the giant vivid rainbow on a bright day after the storm.
Unfortunately, the Rainbow seems a bit uncooperative when trying to coax the rainbow indoors.
All I want is the colorful lights of nature on the ceiling.
But this is much more difficult than expected.
I tried the traditional prism method, but the projection spectrum is too small.
I saw commercial products.
What seems to achieve good results is battery-powered, and there is no projection spectrum at all, except for \"Faxing\" The Rainbow by projecting a single color LEDs.
I\'m thinking about buying a diffraction grating but don\'t know what to get.
I read the Mirror in the tray and the DVD on
The RW disc and packaging tape peel off the metal.
But in the end I got something simpler. . .
I finally got this guidance!
My Rainbow projector was made based on what I had around the house.
Led par is the main component (spotlight)
Bulbs and unused old CDR disk.
I want to reduce the projector a bit but the physical size is based on the LED light I already have, so unless I want to spend more on the new light, otherwise I would get stuck with something bigger than the ideal size, but still good.
About 12-projector-
1/2 \"high, about 5\" square.
The on/off switch is hidden inside the bottom vent opening.
Material: replace LED 7 w PAR (
You have to use the LED light because the incandescent light will generate too much heat and there is a fire hazard.
In addition, the lamp needs to be the type of single light source ,[
You can see a big yellow dot in the center]
Not the type with multiple LEDs. )Unused CD-R (
Other disk types may work, but this is not modified in any way other than shrinking the size. )Wood case (
I lay most of the wood around so don\'t try to understand it)2 -
1\" x 5\" x 12\" (0. 75\"x4. 5\"x12\")pine -
Panel on both sides 1-1\" x 4\" x 3-3/4\" (0. 75\"x3. 5\"x3. 75\")Pine -
Lamp Holder 1-
1/2 \"x 6\" x 12 \"(0. 5\"x5. 5\"x12\")Pine -Front Panel1 -
1/4 \"x 6\" x 10 \"(0. 25\"x5. 5\"x10\")Poplar -
Rear channel panel 1-
1/4 \"x 6\" x 5 \"(0. 25\"x5. 5\"x5\")-
Topinjical1-Plastic Single-
Just change the electric box (the blue box)1 -
Single Rod switch (
Your regular runof-the-mill switch)1 -
Lamp holder with lead 1-
Wire nut for connecting two 18gw wires1-
Extended cable for home use (
You want the length of the wire on the Rainbow projector)1 -
Wall switch sheet-gang.
I used a \"end segment platform \"(
The kind of customizationgang plates)
Because it is very narrow, suitable for my small space.
I must, however, cut it down;
So in the rear view, I will buy a normal plastic (
Nylon will not break)
So you can cut it off. Miscellaneous 1-CD-Unused disk1-
6x1 \"disk head Phillips screw with socket2 installed-
6x1/2 \"mount the switch box to the disk head Phillips screw for side panel 4-
6x3/4 \"flat-head Phillips brass screw for securing the rear channel panel in placeWood Glue black painted/polyurethane finish acrylic resin (Optional)
Tools: Saw for cutting wood clips, for clamping wood blocks when viscose
Cut off the wing of the electric box, cut off the switch cover, cut off the CD-R)
The wire-belt drill motor/drill brush box is just the basic structure that you can build as you like.
As I mentioned, I mainly use the stuff at hand, so it may not make sense.
Side is 1 \"(0. 75\")
Stick to 1/2 \"(0. 5\")front panel.
This gives a U-
First of all, we should shape \"chassi \".
The lamp patch board is glued up from the bottom to the front panel about 3 inch, and each side next to the side panel has a gap of about 1/8.
A unique feature in the box is that I have a ventilation opening at the bottom and it also has access to the hidden on/off switch.
There are also switch boxes and inserts alternately in the vent (make a zig-
Zag path in the air)
Reduce light leakage.
The top panel is glued to the position and the access panel at the back remains in the appropriate position (
There is a 1 \"opening at the top)
Remove the edges with 4 countersunk brass screws and paint the inside of the box Black to reduce light reflection.
You can also paint the inner surface of the rear channel panel.
My lamp holder is the one installed on the threaded tube;
So I had to remove the bracket for the tube.
This is easy to do, plug in the socket in a screwdriver (
Always disconnected from electricity)
And remove the screws of the fixing bracket.
Brackets can be removed and discarded.
The light socket wires can be wired in the woods made for them so that the sockets can be mounted on a flat surface.
When we finally install the socket, a 6x1 screw will be inserted into the hole of the mounting screw for the bracket.
I cut the wings \'(
Mounting bracket)
Off of the blue plastic sheet-
So it can be placed-
Between the side plates.
I then drilled a hole on the side of the box, which is large enough to get the extension cord (to be the projector power cord) through.
To get two mounting screws, I also drilled two holes on the end face of the box.
The box will be screwed to the side panel about 1 \"above the bottom.
The electrical switches are too long to fit between the side panels, but the mounting brackets on them are cut off so that they can be easily broken with pliers.
Cut off the socket of the extension cord and peel off the wire.
The switch on the side of the thread hole.
I tied a knot on the rope to prevent it from falling off or causing pressure on the internal connection.
Drill another hole at the other end of the box to let the light socket wires in.
Also hit a backhand knot on them to prevent them from coming out of the box.
The extension cord is \"zip cord\" and if you look closely and feel, the extension cord has a conductor in which the insulation is round and smooth and the other conductor has a rib surface.
This rib surface represents the conductor connected to the wide blade on the plug.
This is a \"neutral\" conductor, which is a conductor that should be directly connected to the screw shell (
External thread part)
Lamp socket.
A smooth conductor is a \"hot\" conductor and should be a conductor connected to the switch and then to the center contact of the lamp socket.
The blue plastic switch box is screwed onto the side panel using two 6x1/2 \"disc head Phillips screws.
They went through the box in the last two holes.
The lamp head wire is wired through the gap between the socket board and the side board.
The socket is tightened with a 6x1 screw that enters the hole that comes out of the mounting bracket screw.
The socket is fixed so that it is located on the center side and front and back side of the box wall.
The switch cover plate is cut to the right size, so it fits the box and covers the wires inside.
The light is screwed into the socket. Cut the CD-
Cut by air or saw by thin teeth.
The resulting part should be a little wider than the distance between the side panels so that the disk can be installed if it is slightly bent.
It should be located about 1/4 \"from the LED light centered on the lamp, but slightly tilted.
Here you have to play with the disk material to see how it reflects and the location of the \"sweet spot.
Once performing well, the rear channel panel can be screwed into place with 4 brass screws.
Careful people will notice that the color order of the \"Rainbow\" is reversed.
The bottom should be violet.
Of course, it depends on your vantage point and what is the \"bottom \".
However, in order to \"correct\" this \"error\", I plan to install an acrylic mirror on the exit window so that the color can be projected to the ceiling in the correct order.
The mirror will also have some adaptability so that you can more easily align the rainbow where you want it.
Cabinets can now be done in the way you choose. I used a all-in-
A stain and polyurethane.
Use an end according to your preference.
The rainbow projector is done!
Now you can light it and shower your walls and ceiling in rainbow colors.
The projector is designed to run vertically on a flat surface, but it can be tilted to the side if needed.
The vertical direction is designed to keep the LED lights running as cool as possible-
Since the cooler running lights last longer, it is possible to ensure that there is no fire hazard or to extend the life of the LED lights. Thats about it!
I hope you enjoy bringing a little rainbow indoors!
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